Nikhil Kulkarni

Technology leader | Community leader | Speaker | Quizzer | Author


Celebrating Christmas in Bangalore: 2012 Edition – Part I

Well, nothing fancy about the 2012 Edition bit in the title. It isn’t that I’ve been celebrating Christmas (while being in Bangalore itself) over the previous years and this post is about the celebrations in 2012. Couldn’t think of a better title and hence the title, and this needless explanation at the beginning of the post.

Actually, celebrating Christmas is a phenomenon that’s picked up only over the last 3-4 years in India. While it would be a truly heartening if everyone celebrated it in the true spirit, what it has ended up as, is another date in a Brand Manager’s or a Marketing Manager’s annual promotion calendar. That the New Year is also around the corner makes it even more happy and prosperous for the good folks who want us buy their wares. Anyway, more ranting on that later.

Having stayed in Bangalore for over six years now, one of the things I’ve missed out on (and trying to make up now) is to explore and experience the real Bangalore. Far removed from the world of IT/BT, malls, pubs (not quite, pubs are indeed a part of the real Bangalore experience), constant cribbing about the autowallahs & traffic, there is a world that provides a unique flavour to Bangalore.

One of my long pending weekend projects has been to document the churches in Bangalore and the stories around them. Bangalore had a very strong British and hence, a strong Christian influence and that is visibile in the once you get towards the Central Business District (M.G. Road, Brigade Road) and the Cantonment area. The other project is to arrive the number of roads in the vicinity of Brigade Road.  Naming them from the top of my mind – Brunton Road, Commissariat Road, Residency Road, Magrath Road, Richmond Road, Primrose Road. Another project is to arrive at the number of towns in the Cantonment Area. Again, naming them from the top of my mind – Frazer Town, Cox Town, Benson Town, Cooke Town and God knows (someone knows for sure) how many more.

So it was Christmas time and I thought it’ll be a good time to go around Bangalore to visit some of the prominent churches. Not only would I get to see them nicely decked up for the occasion, but also get a chance to  know more their histories. Till this Church exploration happened, the only church(?) I had been to in Bangalore was the St. Mary’s Basilica and that too during Ramzan. It is almost a ritual for me to visit Shivaji Nagar during Ramzan at late nights and spend time at the St. Mary’s Basilica while I’m there. It’s quite intriguing, the streets outside are heavily crowded and immensely noisy with all the Ramzan revelry. The Basilica, though located on the same street is incredibly peaceful and spending 10-15 minutes inside calms you down.

Deepti and I were discussing about making the Church visit happen on Christmas eve for a while and as is the case with most trips/excursions that eventually happen, everything was finalized and materialized in the last few hours.

I did some quick research on the prominent churches in Bangalore to visit during Christmas and strangely, an old (2007) article on Mint was the most helpful.  Quickly marked the locations and the routes on a map and here’s what it looked like:

With our regular cab guy not responding, a cab was booked with TaxiForSure and it turned out that the driver was right in front of the house when I called him to give directions. With some plum cake packed, we set out to explore a different Bangalore!

We picked up one of our friends from Koramangala and decided to start with the St. Francis Xavier Cathedral in Frazer Town. I had a printout of the map and was constantly checking with the driver if he was sure of the directions. I’ve had some crazy experiences with cab drivers messing up with directions and hence wanted to be careful. Our driver seemed to be relying on the navigator app which was quite impressive.

Out first stop was the St. Francis Xavier Church Cathedral in Frazer Town. Nearly 150 years old, the Cathedral is a very imposing structure. The festivities had already begun with people greeting each other and getting into the Cathedral for the mass. While everyone was quite decked up for the occasion,   I was truly the odd man out. In my 3/4th and the jacket with a camera in my hand, I stood out very well from the rest of the crowd! But then, it doesn’t matter, does it? I went inside the church, spoke to a priest to check if I could take photographs when I was told that I could very well do so without disturbing or obstructing the prayers and celebrations.

Some photos from the St. Francis Xavier Cathedral:

The next stop was the St. Mary’s Basilica. With the driver appearing to be completely exhausted and out of sorts and the poor navigator app, unaware of all the one-way restrictions in Bangalore, and hence unable to get us on the right roads, we lost our way quite a bit. But then it was quite an experience to drive around an empty Commercial Street and the surrounding areas. They’re generally teeming with crowds on regular days and even more packed to the brim during Ramzan, which is when I generally visit that area. 
On reaching the St. Mary’s Basilica, we found that there was some commotion at the entrance and there were a few media vans with heavy police presence around. Turns out that the chariot, which was being made ready for a procession, had caught fire and the fire was just extinguished then. Thankfully, there were no casualties and a major disaster was averted. 
As expected, there was a problem with finding parking space in that area and we were actually quite lucky to find parking pretty close by. As we walked towards the Basilica, came across people selling different wares..
Different wears..
and eats..

of this type…
and this type..
and this type as well.

Enlightened after our lessons on Bangalore geography from the eatables seller (he was telling us about the places he is stationed across Bangalore selling his stuff), we headed towards the Basilica.  
We said our prayers, lit the candles and went around the Basilica soaking in the Christmas atmosphere. What I like the most about the Basilica is that there’s a section with Patron Saints for just about every cause. For e.g., Jude the Apostle is the Patron Saint for hopeless causes. Then there are Patron Saints for things like lost things and missing persons. There are also Patron Saints for the internet and I kid you not, Sexually Transmitted Diseases. I can’t vouch for the veracity of this link, but you can look for yourself and figure out. 
Some pictures from the Basilica: 
This old lady was just pulling out burning candles from the stand and there was hot wax all over her hands! 
The post-fire cleanup at the Basilica
Side view of the Basilica:
Everyone set for the next service
Majestic interiors of the Basilica: 
Another one:
About the Basilica and how it came to become one:

And one final photograph of the majestic Basilica!

We visited two more churches, St. Mark’s & St. Patrick’s and I will write about it when I come back from the trip I’m heading out to in the next few hours. Need to catch some sleep before that! And then blog about the that trip as well. And then blog about my personal top Bollywood songs from 2012. And then blog about how the Indian cricket team might look like in 2015 the cricket fanatic in me turned into a cricket fan (after the match-fixing scandal), then into just a follower (after the IPL)! Aren’t you bored enough already? Alright, good night!


2 responses to “Celebrating Christmas in Bangalore: 2012 Edition – Part I”

  1. […] in a year blog posts, similar to the one on top Bollywood songs of 2010 and the one on visiting different churches in Bangalore on Christmas eve. The blog post on visiting churches in Bangalore is just part one with the second […]

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